Pace Leather New York City
When I think about the relationship between an article of clothing and its owner, I wonder about the story behind it. Who it was made for and why was it made this way. The selection of leather or fabric that was chosen. The hardware and thread that finish off the piece. The cut of the garment and all the style lines and details that make it what it is. When I set out to make something I want it to last for as long as possible. Longevity is my sustainability, there’s no branding or marketing that can last as long as a well designed and constructed piece. I’ve developed a style that will always remain relevant. I want somebody to be able to pick up a garment that I’ve made 60 years from now and look at it and say “Fuck, this is badass”.
When I first started making clothes I was really into the idea of bespoke, having something that nobody else had for me was what I based my own individuality off of. Growing up in a sub-culture like punk really puts the world into perspective for you. Knowing who you are and what you want to be is what brings purpose to my life. Being able to fit in anywhere and be accepting of the world around you was crucial to my upbringing.
I grew up in a working class background. My family owns a custom skylights, windows and door company which I started working at when I was 14 right after I dropped out of Jr. High School. A hard week's work is what cultivated and motivated me to be who I am today. I constantly have to remind myself of who I am and what I’m about. I’m a working man, I’ll always be that and that’s fine by me.
Pace in his lower Manhattan studio
To speak for something; That's one of many definitions of the word Bespoke. That’s exactly what I did in my youth, but really I fought and never gave in. I base my beliefs from my youth and put into practice the basic principles of my upbringing into my work. After teaching myself over the course of 12 years along with many failed attempts I still somehow love what I do more than I hate it. The idea behind it all is why I still keep moving forward.
The Bespoke Leather is done entirely in my studio. Prospective clients meet with me for a consultation. With all the bespoke samples on view in my studio, each client can discuss the desired piece they want. After personal measurements are taken, a muslin cheesecloth fitting will take place. Upon approval of fitting from the client and myself, a pattern will be drafted. A canvas sample will then be constructed with a fitting to follow. Once that is to satisfaction, the final garment is sewn. To have a quality product that isn't over produced and belongs to an individual is the foundation of what Pace Leather is about.
All the hides and hardware I source are from a supplier located in Los Angeles that has been in business since the early seventies. They have relationships with tanneries and manufacturers that are all located domestically in the United States. The Denim I like comes from a wholesaler in Queens, NY. They work directly with Mills and Washouses that are located in the south. For all other materials, I source locally in New York City with the exception of the zipper brand I prefer which is made in Switzerland.
Made-to-order collections are a venture that I’ve been developing for the past year. It’s a way to bring a quality product at an affordable price point to the working class. By implementing an easy process for myself and that of those whom I work closely with in the industry. I start out with an idea followed by the design, then I make a pattern. I sew the first sample in house at my studio, if it needs alterations I adjust accordingly. After that, I head to the factory in Midtown, Manhattan. There I work with the pattern graders and the tailors so that they understand each and every step of how I produce my garments. This process that I developed ensures the fact that each piece is produced the exact way I intended it to be from its original conception.
The importance of maintaining balance in our economy while being a part of a major global industry is the backbone of what I base my company on. A well made high quality and ethically sourced and produced item is what makes an American company what it is. That's the reason why I choose to delegate my business in the United States.
OWNER, DESIGNER, AND BESPOKE LEATHER TAILOR
PACE LEATHER NEW YORK CITY